SKIN SCHOOL: Cleansing

Routines

Sunday, December 13, 2015

Today I thought I'd do a quick post on skincare routines. There is a lot of confusion surrounding what should be applied, when and how often, so I'm hoping this should clear things up.

Morning:

Cleanse. No face wipes, no foaming face washes, no daily scrubs. A nice milk, oil or balm cleanser preferably, removed with a warm, damp face cloth. Clay based ones are also suitable for oily skin, as long as they are not foaming!
Tone. Acid toners are best, otherwise, use a mild toner, not with a high alcohol content.
Spritz hydrate. I like to layer skincare, so I add this step in to inject as much hydration into my skin as possible. It also feels really nice and soothing.
Eyes. Application of an eye cream/serum around the eyes, underneath and on top. Eye creams come before your face moisturiser, not afterwards. (Eye products seem optional for most people, but should be an essential if you are concerned with lines/wrinkles, dark circles and dehydration around your eyes.) Do not overload the thin skin around the eyes by applying it directly under or over the eyelid, apply it where you can feel the eyebone.
Serum/oils (Similar to above, a serum is also optional for most people. For me, it's an essential, because they are more concentrated and can penetrate more deeply into the skin). Serums should always be applied under your moisturiser. If you don't seal in your serum using your moisturiser, it'll just evaporate off the skin. Choose one based on your skin type, and one that doesn't contain mineral oil/paraffin or silicone.
Moisturise. Essential to protect and hydrate your skin for the day. Again, avoid silicone in your moisturisers. It's best to use a separate SPF rather than a moisturiser that contains SPF, as it won't have much benefit on the skin (as previously mentioned on here).

Night

1. Cleanse. As above. If you are wearing make-up, remove your make-up first, then cleanse your skin. To do this you can either double cleanse using your cleanser, or use a micellar water first to remove make-up, then your proper cleanser.

2. Tone. As above.

3. Spritz hydrate. As above.

4. 'Treatment' products, my favourite step. This is where you can really go to town, and where your main expense should be. Ideally you should have a few of these you can switch between, depending on what your skin needs that day. These products are things like: night creams, acid exfoliators (liquid gold for example), and facial oils.

Some of this has been previously mentioned on here, however I'm hoping this should reiterate certain things.

Pop any questions in the comment section below,
and remember to follow me!

beauty

Recommended Cleansers

Sunday, October 25, 2015

I thought this post would work well with my last post where I banged on about cleansing.

Below are some options for cleansers that I have used, that I thought would be worth recommending. If you are looking for a new cleanser, or don't have a proper routine yet, keep reading!

All of these cleansers are balm, oil, or cream/milk consistencies, no foaming gels or bubbles. I much prefer balm or oil cleansers as I find they are much more effective at removing grime and make-up (when removed with a cloth).

I am a big fan of 'double cleansing'. This basically means your first cleanse is to remove make-up & surface dirt, and your second cleanse is to clean your skin, and remove impurities not visible to the naked eye.
As a general rule, I use my more 'expensive' product for my second cleanse, as they generally contain ingredients that I want to be working directly on my skin, rather than on top of my make up. So I use a micellar water first on cotton pads all over my face, and then use my proper cleanser second. But if you prefer, you can use just one cleanser (not micellar water) as your first and second cleanse.
Note: The only time I don't double cleanse is in the mornings, or if I've been home all day and not wearing any make-up.

I've said it before, but cleansing is the most important step in your skincare routine. If you are 'cleansing' using wipes or just water alone, and then slapping a really expensive serum/moisturiser on, it won't be working properly.

First up:

CLEANSING BALMS

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm £39.50, available here.

I talked about this product in my PM cleansing routine post. This is one of my favourite cleansers ever. For me, this is a skin cleanser rather than a make up remover, however it can be used for both. It's a gorgeous balm consistency, that isn't too solid like some other balms can be. It melts impurities and grime, there is also a cleansing cloth included in the box.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: massage a small amount into your skin whilst it's dry, it then turns into an oil consistency. You can then remove it at this point, using your flannel/cloth, which is what I do, or add a little water onto the skin to emulsify it, and then remove with your cloth. I would never try to remove any balm cleanser by rinsing with water, you always should remove with a cloth.

Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm £38 available here.

Moringa Cleansing Balm with Cleansing Cloth

This is another of my favourites, on par with the Elemis one above they are also around the same price point, and this also includes a cleansing cloth. I love the smell of this, it's impossible not to like it! It's really plumping and softening, and reconditioning which is great for dull, dry, dehydrated skin, however, this one is also suitable for all skin types. Moringa is also a powerful anti-oxidant.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: same way as above.

Clinique 'Take The Day Off' Cleansing Balm £22 available here.

This balm is a similar consistency to the two above, however I found it slightly thicker, but it still transforms into a silky oil consistency on the skin. It is almost a 'dupe' for the two above, however it is free of essential oils, so it doesn't smell as luxurious and lovely as the others.
To use: same as the two above.
Skin types: all, especially great for sensitive skin, and those who suffer with acne.
As a side note: this is the only Clinique product I would actually recommend. I am not a fan of their 3-step system.

Body Shop Camomile Sumptuous Cleansing Butter £13 available here.

Although this is called a cleansing butter, I still consider it a cleansing balm. The consistency is what it says on the tin - like butter. A little goes a long way, and the camomile is really great for redness, and soothing the skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: This one is more suited to dry/very dry skin and sensitive skin, but not suitable for acne/breakout prone skin, as it does contain synthetic waxes and shea butter.

Lush Ultrabland £7.50 available here.

This is the most affordable cleansing balm I have come across, you won't find a decent one for a lower price. It's main ingredients are beeswax, honey and rosewater.
To use: same as the ones above.
Skin types: suitable for all skin types, but you have to really make sure this is removed properly as it is quite thick.

CLEANSING OILS

Super Facialist Skin Renew Cleansing Oil by Una Brennan, £10.99 available here.

I talked about this in my PM cleansing routine, it's what I've been using for the last few weeks. It's really brightening and softening, it smells really citrus-y and fresh. The only thing that annoys me about this, is the packaging. You have to pour it out into your hand and try to flip the lid back on whilst you're balancing the oil in the other hand...only a very minor detail, it doesn't actually effect the product itself!
To use: massage this onto dry skin, don't wet it first, and then remove with a warm, damp flannel. Always, always remove oils and balms with flannels, don't try to rinse them off.
Skin types: All, especially dry skin.

Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Oil, £11.00 available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really softening and silky, and feels gorgeous on the skin. On the plus side; this has a pump, yay! Much easier to use than having to pour it into your hand.
To use: same as above.
Skin types: all, especially dry skin.

CLEANSING MILKS/CREAMS

Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel £28.00 available here.

I'm not sure where to place this one, it's consistency is almost like a mixture of a balm, milk and oil all in one, even though it's called a 'gel'. It has amazing ingredients in it which are really brightening, including vitamins A, C & E, starflower oil, and pumpkin enzymes, which are known to gently exfoliate, eating away at dead skin cells. It's a difficult scent to describe, but it smells nice, my boyfriend used it once and said it smelt like turkish delight. This is really nice to use as a second cleanse in the evenings, and also as a morning cleanser.
To use: massage into dry skin, and remove with a cloth, same as all of the above.
Skin types: all, particularly dull, oily skin. Not the best for very sensitive skin, as the pumpkin enzymes are quite 'active'.

ESPA Balancing Foam Cleanser, £24.00 available here.

I love this cleanser. I know I advise against using foam cleansers, and I still do, however with this one, it's the pump that makes it foamy, not the actual product itself, there are no stripping sulphates in this. It's main ingredients are coconut, and organic mandarin which helps to balance the skins natural oils. This smells gorgeous, it's a really soft orange scent.

I used this one in the morning, mainly because the consistency isn't thick enough to remove make up properly.

To use: massage into dry skin, and rinse off with water.

Skin types: oily/combination, but suitable for all skin types.

Elemis Cleansers £22.50, available here.

I have put 'cleansers' here because there are three different formulations of this cleanser, based on your skin type. They are all the same price, and in the same packaging, just the ingredients differ in each one. They are all a lovely creamy, milky consistency, and leave your skin feeling soft and smooth, not stripped. The one pictured is the 'Rehydrating Rose Petal Cleanser' which is great for dry & dehydrated skin. There is also a 'Soothing Chamomile' version, for sensitive and hormonal skin, and a 'Balancing Lime Blossom' version, for oily/combination skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: They are all suitable for all skin types, however there are different ones suited for different skin concerns.

REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk £16.00, available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really gentle and refreshing. This would be a nice one to use if you don't like using balm or oils, as milks are not as 'greasy' feeling.
To use: same as the above.
Skin types: all, especially sensitive

Soap and Glory 'The Ultimelt' Hot Cloth Cleanser £10.00 available here and at Boots.

This is a great cleanser, it's really refreshing and invigorating to use, and is almost a clay like consistency. It smells nice too. I used this as either a second cleanse in the evenings, or as my morning cleanse. I really like the packaging, there's something satisfying about it! It's like a giant toothpaste tube.
To use: Same as the above, massage onto dry skin, and remove with a warm, damp cloth.
Skin types: all, especially oily/combination. Not the best for those with sensitivity to essential oils.

I hope this post has been helpful, if you have any questions just pop them in the box below.

Please follow me by putting your email address in the box below to keep up to date!

beauty

Cleansing

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

I thought I'd do a post today about cleansing, there is so much rubbish advice out there and advertising that just confuses people, so I'm hoping this post will help.

EDIT: I've split this post into two sections; Do's and Don'ts, to make it easier to read.

Firstly, cleansing is the most important part of your routine, if your skin is properly cleansed, all your products that you apply afterwards are far more effective.

DO:

1. Cleanse morning & night
You need to cleanse your face in the morning, to remove sweat and dead skin cells. At night, you need to cleanse to remove make up, and to rid your skin of dirt & bacteria. If you do not cleanse your skin properly, it will become clogged, dull, and be more susceptible to breakouts and dryness or dehydration. As mentioned in my previous post, just as you would brush your teeth morning & night, cleanse your skin. Make time.

2. Use a dedicated face cleanser
This might sound obvious, but alot of people use body products/shower gels on their face. The skin on your face is different to the rest of your body, so treat it differently.

3. Remove make up before cleansing your skin
Use a micellar water on cotton pads to remove your make up first, then cleanse your skin using a cream/balm/oil cleanser and a warm facecloth/flannel. Micellar waters are not enough to use alone as a cleanser. Or, if you'd prefer not to use a micellar water first, you can double cleanse using your cream/balm/oil cleanser, (first cleanse to remove make up, second cleanse to clean your skin) just turn your face cloth to the other side in between, so that you are not adding make up back onto your skin.

4. Remove your cleanser properly
I've said it before, but cotton pads/tissues don't remove your cleanser properly. (By cleansers - I always mean a cream, balm or oil consistency). Use a face cloth or flannel to remove it (note: use a clean cloth every day, they are really cheap, I have about 10). Run the flannel under the clean water from the tap (warm water, not hot), rather than filling the bowl. Men shave over the sink, people spit in the sink, I don't really want spit on my face, thank you.

DON'T:

5. Use wipes
Where do I begin?
Wipes do not cleanse your skin effectively, they mostly just smear make up, dirt, bacteria, etc, around your face. They contain alot of alcohol, and surfactants (detergent like chemicals) which is what keeps them moist in the packet, and are really stripping, and irritating to the skin, and can also make you suffer with more breakouts.
It's literally like putting neat vodka on a cotton pad, and wiping it over your skin. The irritation can leave your skin feeling tight, red and sore, particularly because these ingredients are then left on the skin. It's like rubbing soap into your face and not washing it off. Yes, even the wipes by those skincare brands that claim to only use 'natural' ingredients and that their products are 'kind to skin'.
People will also often be quite rough on their skin with wipes, particularly trying to remove eye make up, dragging and pulling at the delicate skin around the eyes.
When I see women in shops picking up wipes I just want to grab them out of their hand and educate them. I was in the queue in Superdrug last week and there were some ladies stood behind me, one with about 5 packets of wipes in her hand. She was saying 'I don't know what's wrong with my skin, I just keep getting all these spots all over my face so I think I need to use more of these'. I died a little inside.
No no no, please cleanse your face properly, leave the wipes for backsides.

6. Use foaming/bubbly face washes
Cleansers that are foaming very often contain sulphates/sulfates. These are foaming agents added to many cosmetics, such as shampoo, shower gels, handwash, etc. They strip the skin of it's natural oils, which can leave it feeling 'tight' and dry. This can lead to your skin going one of two ways: either dehydrated and dry, or very oily. If you strip the skin of it's natural oils, it will try to hydrate itself by producing too much oil, leading to breakouts/oilyness. (Go and look at your handwash/shower gel, they will be in there, normally listed as sodium laureth sulfate/ammonium lauryl sulfate.) I try to avoid sulfates in my products where possible. There is a common misconception that if you have oily skin, you should use a gel or foamy cleanser to get rid of the oil, and that creamy cleansers will make your skin more oily. That's not the case - as long as your cleanser is removed properly, it won't leave your skin feeling greasy or oily.

7. Use soap
By soap, I mean soap bars that Grans have in their bathrooms. Soaps do the same as the above, they strip the skin leaving it tight, and they also alkaline the skin, leaving it a breeding ground for bacteria. Your skin should never feel 'tight' after cleansing, if it does, your skins acid mantle is being disrupted. The acid mantle works like a veil that keeps moisture in, and pollution and bacteria out. Plus, soap sits on the side collecting bacteria, dust and hair, I don't think anyone particularly wants that on their face.

8. Use water alone
Many, many women often say to me 'I use water to wash my face, I just splash it with water'.
This is not enough. You wouldn't just splash your hair with water to wash it, you wouldn't just rinse your mouth with water to brush your teeth, you get the picture.

And finally...

9. Don't exfoliate every day
There are so many 'daily face scrubs' and 'daily exfoliators' out there. Your skin does not need to be manually exfoliated every day. Doing this will destroy the skins protective barrier, leaving your skin irritated, dry and sensitive. It also leaves acne-prone skin more susceptible to spots and oiliness, as scrubs spread the germs from one spot all over the face, and stimulate the oil glands.
Unfortunately, most of these daily scrubs are marketed at those with acne-prone, oily skin, and it's the worst thing you can do. It won't help.
The same goes for cleansing brushes. I hate those, why would you want to almost sand your face using what is essentially, a large electric toothbrush? Your skin is delicate, it is not a piece of furniture.
Using a mild, exfoliating toner containing AHA's every day is fine, but not granular scrubs/brushes.

...So to conclude, the best cleansers to use are cream, balm or oil consistencies, whatever your skin type!

*Rant over*

I hope this post has been helpful! If you have any questions or requests just pop them in the comment section below :)

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