SKIN SCHOOL: oskia

Exfoliating

Sunday, November 15, 2015

From my experience, there are normally two types of people:
1. those who don't exfoliate at all.
2. those who do it every day, sometimes twice a day.
There seems to be a lot of confusion surrounding exfoliating, with so many different types out there, like 'daily scrubs' etc, so I thought I'd help set the record straight.

Why exfoliate?

Exfoliation is done to get rid of dead skin cells, and a build up of dirt and bacteria. It should leave your skin refreshed, soft, and smooth, NOT red, tight and sore. When you exfoliate properly, all your lovely serums, treatments and moisturisers work much better, because they aren't sitting on top of a build up of dead skin, dirt, etc.

Types of exfoliation

There are a few different types of exfoliator, granular scrub-type ones, acid ones (which are my personal preference), and exfoliating tools, as in Clarisonic brushes, exfoliating gloves, etc.

How often?

If you use 'manual' exfoliators, (granular scrub ones, brushes, gloves, etc) you should only use them once a week. More than that is too much for the skin. I don't care if it's called a 'daily scrub' or what it says on the bottle. Over use of these types of exfoliators can leave your skin red, sore, blistered, dehydrated, and give you more spots if you suffer with them. You don't want to destroy the skins acid mantle. Sooo many people tell me they use scrubs every day - and they are always the people who suffer with problem skin, whether it's dryness, dehydration, redness, spots or oilyness. Honestly, why are people so angry with their skin? Don't punish it!

For acid/AHA exfoliators, as they do not contain granules, they can be used more often than once a week. I use a mild exfoliating acid toner daily, and I also use my Alpha H Liquid Gold about twice a week.

Face/Body

I use granular scrubs on my body, but not on my face. The skin is more delicate on the face.

Skin types
Granular scrubs - best on dry skin & normal skin. Avoid these types of scrubs if you have oily skin, spots or sensitivity.
Acids - brilliant on all skin types to be honest. If you have hyper sensitive skin, or rosacea, try before you buy.

Which 'scrubs' to use

Granular face scrubs should have gentle beads in them, and the granules should be perfectly round so they don't scratch at the skin. Please, avoid anything with kernels or seeds in, especially that popular apricot kernel scrub. The jagged edges of the kernels scratch at the skin, and can cause tiny tears in the skin. Throw it away (or give it to someone you don't like!). The same goes for those horrible 'daily scrubs' full of big harsh granules and sulfates, aimed at those with acne.

Do you know what else I find extremely irritating? When celebrities are used to advertise these scrubs and face washes. There is no way they actually use those products. Why can't these companies put the money they use for their advertising, INTO the products and using better ingredients?? Actually I know why, because they know people will buy them, as they have done for years. Especially if they use a celebrity in the advert.

Anyway, below are some recommendations for exfoliators, granular and acids.

Granular

Oskia Micro Exfoliating Balm £46.00 available here.

This one is more of a 'high end' product, and it's gorgeous. It has tiny, round particles in it, and is a lovely, hydrating balm consistency, which turns to a milk upon contact with water. It's packed full of vitamins, minerals, probiotics, omegas and lovely plant oils. It cleanses, exfoliates and nourishes in one go. It smells really refreshing, as it contains rose, lychee and peppermint. With this one, you can adjust the exfoliating 'level' to your desire, by just adding more water for a more gentle exfoliation.

Skin types: dry, normal skin.

To use: once a week, massage a small amount all over dry skin, adding water as you wish.

Elemis Gentle Rose Exfoliator, £30, available here.

This is exactly as the title suggests, gentle. The particles in this are jojoba beads, and are perfectly round, no jagged edges to scratch the skin. It also contains Moroccan Rose which is really hydrating, and cucumber which is really cooling and soothing. It's a gel consistency, and has a really subtle scent. It's gentle enough not to irritate, but also leaves your skin feeling like it's actually had an exfoliation.

Skin types: most skin types, especially dry, normal skin.

To use: once a week, massage a small amount all over the skin, concentrating around the nose and chin, and rinse off.

ESPA Refining Skin Polish £27.00, available here.

This is a lovely creamy one, with small, perfectly round particles in it. The particles are crushed seashells, and it also contains rose damascena, as well as shea butter. This one really leaves your skin amazingly soft and smooth, it really gives the 'wow' factor, it makes you want to stroke your face constantly.

Skin types: dry, normal skin.

To use: once a week, massage a small amount all over the skin and rinse off.

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish, between £15-£18, available here.

This one contains shea nut shell powder, and oatmeal. It's nice and gentle, and buffs away dead skin without stripping the skin. It's quite a runny consistency so you only need a small amount.

Skin types: most, especially normal and dry.

To use: once a week, massage a small amount all over the skin and rinse off.

Lush Angels on Bare Skin, £6.95, available here.

This one has tiny ground almonds in it, along with lavender, chamomile and rose to calm the skin, and kaolin clay (used in a lot of face masks) to absorb dirt and oil. This one has to be mixed with water in the hands to create a paste before you use it. It's really gentle and hydrating, and turns into an almond milk as you massage it in.
Skin types: mostly all, especially normal and dry.
To use: mix with water in hands, and apply to the skin and massage in circular movements, then rinse off.

Acids

Below are ones that you would typically use about once or twice a week, rather than a daily acid toner.

1. Alpha H Liquid Gold, £33.50 available here.

I talked about this in my PM skincare routine, so for more information, read it here. This one is used overnight, about once or twice a week. You soak a cotton pad with it, and wipe over the skin, then leave it on.
Skin types: all, literally everyone should use this!

Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel, £32.00, available here.

This is another of my favourites, it doesn't have AHA's in it, however it does contain exfoliating fruit enzymes of papaya and pineapple, as well as milk protein and vitamin E. It smells amaaazing, honestly, if you are near an Elemis counter or spa anytime soon, have a sniff! Your skin feels like silk afterwards, it's sooo soft.

Skin types: all, for sensitive skin I'd try before you buy.

To use: apply a thin layer all over the face, and leave on for about 10 minutes, then remove with a flannel.

Aveda Botanical Kinetics Exfoliant, £18, available here.

This one is mainly salicylic acid, as well as lavender, witch hazel and balm mint. It helps shrink the pores, gets rid of dead skin cells, and treats and prevents breakouts. It leaves your skin feeling really lovely and smooth. It is used in the same way as Alpha H Liquid gold.

Skin types: all, especially oily, spot prone skin.

To use: after cleansing at night, soak a cotton pad with this, and wipe over the skin, and leave on overnight.

For more acid recommendations, see my 'toning' post here, containing daily acid toners, which are a great way of exfoliating.

If you have any questions, pop them in the comment section below!

beauty

Recommended Cleansers

Sunday, October 25, 2015

I thought this post would work well with my last post where I banged on about cleansing.

Below are some options for cleansers that I have used, that I thought would be worth recommending. If you are looking for a new cleanser, or don't have a proper routine yet, keep reading!

All of these cleansers are balm, oil, or cream/milk consistencies, no foaming gels or bubbles. I much prefer balm or oil cleansers as I find they are much more effective at removing grime and make-up (when removed with a cloth).

I am a big fan of 'double cleansing'. This basically means your first cleanse is to remove make-up & surface dirt, and your second cleanse is to clean your skin, and remove impurities not visible to the naked eye.
As a general rule, I use my more 'expensive' product for my second cleanse, as they generally contain ingredients that I want to be working directly on my skin, rather than on top of my make up. So I use a micellar water first on cotton pads all over my face, and then use my proper cleanser second. But if you prefer, you can use just one cleanser (not micellar water) as your first and second cleanse.
Note: The only time I don't double cleanse is in the mornings, or if I've been home all day and not wearing any make-up.

I've said it before, but cleansing is the most important step in your skincare routine. If you are 'cleansing' using wipes or just water alone, and then slapping a really expensive serum/moisturiser on, it won't be working properly.

First up:

CLEANSING BALMS

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm £39.50, available here.

I talked about this product in my PM cleansing routine post. This is one of my favourite cleansers ever. For me, this is a skin cleanser rather than a make up remover, however it can be used for both. It's a gorgeous balm consistency, that isn't too solid like some other balms can be. It melts impurities and grime, there is also a cleansing cloth included in the box.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: massage a small amount into your skin whilst it's dry, it then turns into an oil consistency. You can then remove it at this point, using your flannel/cloth, which is what I do, or add a little water onto the skin to emulsify it, and then remove with your cloth. I would never try to remove any balm cleanser by rinsing with water, you always should remove with a cloth.

Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm £38 available here.

Moringa Cleansing Balm with Cleansing Cloth

This is another of my favourites, on par with the Elemis one above they are also around the same price point, and this also includes a cleansing cloth. I love the smell of this, it's impossible not to like it! It's really plumping and softening, and reconditioning which is great for dull, dry, dehydrated skin, however, this one is also suitable for all skin types. Moringa is also a powerful anti-oxidant.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: same way as above.

Clinique 'Take The Day Off' Cleansing Balm £22 available here.

This balm is a similar consistency to the two above, however I found it slightly thicker, but it still transforms into a silky oil consistency on the skin. It is almost a 'dupe' for the two above, however it is free of essential oils, so it doesn't smell as luxurious and lovely as the others.
To use: same as the two above.
Skin types: all, especially great for sensitive skin, and those who suffer with acne.
As a side note: this is the only Clinique product I would actually recommend. I am not a fan of their 3-step system.

Body Shop Camomile Sumptuous Cleansing Butter £13 available here.

Although this is called a cleansing butter, I still consider it a cleansing balm. The consistency is what it says on the tin - like butter. A little goes a long way, and the camomile is really great for redness, and soothing the skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: This one is more suited to dry/very dry skin and sensitive skin, but not suitable for acne/breakout prone skin, as it does contain synthetic waxes and shea butter.

Lush Ultrabland £7.50 available here.

This is the most affordable cleansing balm I have come across, you won't find a decent one for a lower price. It's main ingredients are beeswax, honey and rosewater.
To use: same as the ones above.
Skin types: suitable for all skin types, but you have to really make sure this is removed properly as it is quite thick.

CLEANSING OILS

Super Facialist Skin Renew Cleansing Oil by Una Brennan, £10.99 available here.

I talked about this in my PM cleansing routine, it's what I've been using for the last few weeks. It's really brightening and softening, it smells really citrus-y and fresh. The only thing that annoys me about this, is the packaging. You have to pour it out into your hand and try to flip the lid back on whilst you're balancing the oil in the other hand...only a very minor detail, it doesn't actually effect the product itself!
To use: massage this onto dry skin, don't wet it first, and then remove with a warm, damp flannel. Always, always remove oils and balms with flannels, don't try to rinse them off.
Skin types: All, especially dry skin.

Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Oil, £11.00 available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really softening and silky, and feels gorgeous on the skin. On the plus side; this has a pump, yay! Much easier to use than having to pour it into your hand.
To use: same as above.
Skin types: all, especially dry skin.

CLEANSING MILKS/CREAMS

Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel £28.00 available here.

I'm not sure where to place this one, it's consistency is almost like a mixture of a balm, milk and oil all in one, even though it's called a 'gel'. It has amazing ingredients in it which are really brightening, including vitamins A, C & E, starflower oil, and pumpkin enzymes, which are known to gently exfoliate, eating away at dead skin cells. It's a difficult scent to describe, but it smells nice, my boyfriend used it once and said it smelt like turkish delight. This is really nice to use as a second cleanse in the evenings, and also as a morning cleanser.
To use: massage into dry skin, and remove with a cloth, same as all of the above.
Skin types: all, particularly dull, oily skin. Not the best for very sensitive skin, as the pumpkin enzymes are quite 'active'.

ESPA Balancing Foam Cleanser, £24.00 available here.

I love this cleanser. I know I advise against using foam cleansers, and I still do, however with this one, it's the pump that makes it foamy, not the actual product itself, there are no stripping sulphates in this. It's main ingredients are coconut, and organic mandarin which helps to balance the skins natural oils. This smells gorgeous, it's a really soft orange scent.

I used this one in the morning, mainly because the consistency isn't thick enough to remove make up properly.

To use: massage into dry skin, and rinse off with water.

Skin types: oily/combination, but suitable for all skin types.

Elemis Cleansers £22.50, available here.

I have put 'cleansers' here because there are three different formulations of this cleanser, based on your skin type. They are all the same price, and in the same packaging, just the ingredients differ in each one. They are all a lovely creamy, milky consistency, and leave your skin feeling soft and smooth, not stripped. The one pictured is the 'Rehydrating Rose Petal Cleanser' which is great for dry & dehydrated skin. There is also a 'Soothing Chamomile' version, for sensitive and hormonal skin, and a 'Balancing Lime Blossom' version, for oily/combination skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: They are all suitable for all skin types, however there are different ones suited for different skin concerns.

REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk £16.00, available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really gentle and refreshing. This would be a nice one to use if you don't like using balm or oils, as milks are not as 'greasy' feeling.
To use: same as the above.
Skin types: all, especially sensitive

Soap and Glory 'The Ultimelt' Hot Cloth Cleanser £10.00 available here and at Boots.

This is a great cleanser, it's really refreshing and invigorating to use, and is almost a clay like consistency. It smells nice too. I used this as either a second cleanse in the evenings, or as my morning cleanse. I really like the packaging, there's something satisfying about it! It's like a giant toothpaste tube.
To use: Same as the above, massage onto dry skin, and remove with a warm, damp cloth.
Skin types: all, especially oily/combination. Not the best for those with sensitivity to essential oils.

I hope this post has been helpful, if you have any questions just pop them in the box below.

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Exfoliating

Recommended Cleansers

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