SKIN SCHOOL: October 2015

Toning

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Today's post is going to be about toning, along with some recommendations.

Why should I use a toner?

So, so, so many people miss out toning, because they either;
1. don't know what they do, or 2. think they are too drying/astringent.

Toners are used to rebalance the pH level of your skin after cleansing, and to shrink the pores, so that bacteria & pollution don't build up in the pores and cause dryness/dullness/spots. Note - toners are not used to 'remove traces of cleanser' or 'remove make-up residue'....if your cleanser does not remove your make-up or clean your face, you are not cleansing properly, or you need a new cleanser.

Yes, some toners are very astringent and drying on the skin, particularly those with a high alcohol content (~~aherm, Clinique!~~). You may aswell use nail polish remover.

I love acid toners, containing AHA's such as lactic acid (resurfacing, great for dry and dehydrated skin), glycolic acid (resurfacing, stimulating for better collagen production), and salicylic acid (great for spots/acne). The acid kicks your skin into action, sloughing away dead skin cells, and providing a perfect base for serums/moisturisers, allowing them to do their work properly.

The ones I recommend are gentle enough to use every day, as the acid content isn't too high. However, some people can have reactions to acids, just as they can have reactions to any other ingredients in products, like essential oils, so if you have extremely reactive/hyper sensitive skin, they may be best to avoid. It's important to note that you may experience a 'tingling' sensation for the first few times you use acids, but it disappears after a while.

Note: Alpha H Liquid Gold, recommended in one of my other posts, is not a toner. It should be used overnight, once or twice a week.
For those of you who don't want to use acid toners, I've listed a couple of acid-free ones.

Using the correct toner, will be one of the best things you ever do for your skin, trust me, you will see a difference.

Decleor Aroma White C+ Hydra-Brightening Lotion, £24.50, available here.

This is an acid-free formula, for those of you nervous about trying acid toners. It's still brightening and resurfacing, as it contains vitamin C, along with papaya and lemon. It's radiance boosting and gentle enough to use every day.

I really love a lot of Decleor products, they are a really good quality skincare brand.
Skin types: all
To use: after cleansing, apply some to a cotton pad and wipe over the skin.

Elemis Soothing/Rehydrating/Balancing Toner, £22.50 available here.

These are great toners for anyone who has never used one before. They are alcohol free, and acid free, so a great starting point if you've never had a proper skincare routine before. There are three different types, the one pictured is the Soothing Apricot Toner, it smells amazing, and is perfect for very sensitive, hormonal skin, and rosacea. There is also a Rehydrating Ginseng one, great for dry, dehydrated and mature skin, and lastly, a Balancing Lavender one, which is brilliant for oily/combination/spot prone skin. They are all the same price (£22.50), and are really good quality, and all smell gorgeous.

Skin types: I'd say they are all suitable for all skin types, however it's best to go for the one that you think best suits you.

To use: they come with a spray top, so you can spray it onto a cotton pad and wipe over the skin, or spritz directly onto the face if you're in a rush. Apply after cleansing, before moisturising.

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, between £18-£22, available at most places online, including here.

These are a great starting point if you haven't used acids before. They are nice and gentle, but still kick your skin into action. Containing lactic and glycolic acid, along with cucumber and lemon peel, this is a lovely alcohol free brightening, exfoliating toner. They also contain hyaluronic acid, which is really hydrating. These can be used everyday, they are pre-soaked pads so there is no need for a cotton pad. Each pot contains 60 pads, so it's good value for money. This is one of the best affordable options for an acid toner, and one of my favourites out of this bunch.

Skin types: all, including sensitive skin.

To use: wipe over the skin with one of the pre-soaked pads after your cleanser, before your moisturiser.

Pixi Glow Tonic, £18, available here.

This is a gorgeous, exfoliating skin tonic that is gentle enough to use everyday. This is another of my favourites out of the bunch, it's alcohol free and also contains soothing aloe vera and oxygenating ginseng. I tend to prefer using this once a day rather than twice, so it was mostly in the evenings I'd use them.

Skin types: all.

To use: after cleansing, apply some to a cotton pad and wipe over the skin.

Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion, £16.50 available here and at Boots.

I know it may seem like I'm contradicting myself here, but this clarifying lotion from the Clinique range is not the same as the other clarifying lotion toners they do. This, along with the 'Take the Day off' cleansing balm mentioned in my last post, are the only two Clinique products I like and would recommend. Most of the other products are harsh and stripping on the skin. However, this one is an alcohol free formula, so non-stripping, and it's main ingredient is salicylic acid.

Skin types: combination/oily/spot prone skin.

To use: after cleansing, apply some to a cotton pad and wipe over the skin.

REN Clarimatte Clarifying Toner, £13 available here.

I've mentioned this in a couple of my other posts, this is the toner I've been using recently, it's one of the most affordable options. It has glycolic and lactic acid in it, so it really helps slough off dead skin cells and leave your skin feeling clear, radiant and smooth, ready for your serum/moisturiser.

Skin types: all, particularly oily/spot prone skin.

To use: after cleansing, apply some to a cotton pad and wipe over the skin.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Clarifying Lotion, £11.00, available here.

This is another affordable option, containing mainly salicylic acid, which really helps prevent breakouts and clear up any current ones. As above, this one does also contain alcohol denat, which can be slightly drying on the skin.

Skin types: all, particularly oily/spot prone skin

To use: as above.

If you have any questions please ask in the comment section below, and remember to subscribe!

beauty

Recommended Cleansers

Sunday, October 25, 2015

I thought this post would work well with my last post where I banged on about cleansing.

Below are some options for cleansers that I have used, that I thought would be worth recommending. If you are looking for a new cleanser, or don't have a proper routine yet, keep reading!

All of these cleansers are balm, oil, or cream/milk consistencies, no foaming gels or bubbles. I much prefer balm or oil cleansers as I find they are much more effective at removing grime and make-up (when removed with a cloth).

I am a big fan of 'double cleansing'. This basically means your first cleanse is to remove make-up & surface dirt, and your second cleanse is to clean your skin, and remove impurities not visible to the naked eye.
As a general rule, I use my more 'expensive' product for my second cleanse, as they generally contain ingredients that I want to be working directly on my skin, rather than on top of my make up. So I use a micellar water first on cotton pads all over my face, and then use my proper cleanser second. But if you prefer, you can use just one cleanser (not micellar water) as your first and second cleanse.
Note: The only time I don't double cleanse is in the mornings, or if I've been home all day and not wearing any make-up.

I've said it before, but cleansing is the most important step in your skincare routine. If you are 'cleansing' using wipes or just water alone, and then slapping a really expensive serum/moisturiser on, it won't be working properly.

First up:

CLEANSING BALMS

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm £39.50, available here.

I talked about this product in my PM cleansing routine post. This is one of my favourite cleansers ever. For me, this is a skin cleanser rather than a make up remover, however it can be used for both. It's a gorgeous balm consistency, that isn't too solid like some other balms can be. It melts impurities and grime, there is also a cleansing cloth included in the box.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: massage a small amount into your skin whilst it's dry, it then turns into an oil consistency. You can then remove it at this point, using your flannel/cloth, which is what I do, or add a little water onto the skin to emulsify it, and then remove with your cloth. I would never try to remove any balm cleanser by rinsing with water, you always should remove with a cloth.

Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm £38 available here.

Moringa Cleansing Balm with Cleansing Cloth

This is another of my favourites, on par with the Elemis one above they are also around the same price point, and this also includes a cleansing cloth. I love the smell of this, it's impossible not to like it! It's really plumping and softening, and reconditioning which is great for dull, dry, dehydrated skin, however, this one is also suitable for all skin types. Moringa is also a powerful anti-oxidant.
Skin types: all, particularly dry and mature skin. Not great for those with sensitivity to essential oils.
To use: same way as above.

Clinique 'Take The Day Off' Cleansing Balm £22 available here.

This balm is a similar consistency to the two above, however I found it slightly thicker, but it still transforms into a silky oil consistency on the skin. It is almost a 'dupe' for the two above, however it is free of essential oils, so it doesn't smell as luxurious and lovely as the others.
To use: same as the two above.
Skin types: all, especially great for sensitive skin, and those who suffer with acne.
As a side note: this is the only Clinique product I would actually recommend. I am not a fan of their 3-step system.

Body Shop Camomile Sumptuous Cleansing Butter £13 available here.

Although this is called a cleansing butter, I still consider it a cleansing balm. The consistency is what it says on the tin - like butter. A little goes a long way, and the camomile is really great for redness, and soothing the skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: This one is more suited to dry/very dry skin and sensitive skin, but not suitable for acne/breakout prone skin, as it does contain synthetic waxes and shea butter.

Lush Ultrabland £7.50 available here.

This is the most affordable cleansing balm I have come across, you won't find a decent one for a lower price. It's main ingredients are beeswax, honey and rosewater.
To use: same as the ones above.
Skin types: suitable for all skin types, but you have to really make sure this is removed properly as it is quite thick.

CLEANSING OILS

Super Facialist Skin Renew Cleansing Oil by Una Brennan, £10.99 available here.

I talked about this in my PM cleansing routine, it's what I've been using for the last few weeks. It's really brightening and softening, it smells really citrus-y and fresh. The only thing that annoys me about this, is the packaging. You have to pour it out into your hand and try to flip the lid back on whilst you're balancing the oil in the other hand...only a very minor detail, it doesn't actually effect the product itself!
To use: massage this onto dry skin, don't wet it first, and then remove with a warm, damp flannel. Always, always remove oils and balms with flannels, don't try to rinse them off.
Skin types: All, especially dry skin.

Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Oil, £11.00 available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really softening and silky, and feels gorgeous on the skin. On the plus side; this has a pump, yay! Much easier to use than having to pour it into your hand.
To use: same as above.
Skin types: all, especially dry skin.

CLEANSING MILKS/CREAMS

Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel £28.00 available here.

I'm not sure where to place this one, it's consistency is almost like a mixture of a balm, milk and oil all in one, even though it's called a 'gel'. It has amazing ingredients in it which are really brightening, including vitamins A, C & E, starflower oil, and pumpkin enzymes, which are known to gently exfoliate, eating away at dead skin cells. It's a difficult scent to describe, but it smells nice, my boyfriend used it once and said it smelt like turkish delight. This is really nice to use as a second cleanse in the evenings, and also as a morning cleanser.
To use: massage into dry skin, and remove with a cloth, same as all of the above.
Skin types: all, particularly dull, oily skin. Not the best for very sensitive skin, as the pumpkin enzymes are quite 'active'.

ESPA Balancing Foam Cleanser, £24.00 available here.

I love this cleanser. I know I advise against using foam cleansers, and I still do, however with this one, it's the pump that makes it foamy, not the actual product itself, there are no stripping sulphates in this. It's main ingredients are coconut, and organic mandarin which helps to balance the skins natural oils. This smells gorgeous, it's a really soft orange scent.

I used this one in the morning, mainly because the consistency isn't thick enough to remove make up properly.

To use: massage into dry skin, and rinse off with water.

Skin types: oily/combination, but suitable for all skin types.

Elemis Cleansers £22.50, available here.

I have put 'cleansers' here because there are three different formulations of this cleanser, based on your skin type. They are all the same price, and in the same packaging, just the ingredients differ in each one. They are all a lovely creamy, milky consistency, and leave your skin feeling soft and smooth, not stripped. The one pictured is the 'Rehydrating Rose Petal Cleanser' which is great for dry & dehydrated skin. There is also a 'Soothing Chamomile' version, for sensitive and hormonal skin, and a 'Balancing Lime Blossom' version, for oily/combination skin.
To use: same way as the ones above, massage into dry skin, and thoroughly remove with a warm, damp flannel.
Skin types: They are all suitable for all skin types, however there are different ones suited for different skin concerns.

REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk £16.00, available here.

This is a really lovely product, it's really gentle and refreshing. This would be a nice one to use if you don't like using balm or oils, as milks are not as 'greasy' feeling.
To use: same as the above.
Skin types: all, especially sensitive

Soap and Glory 'The Ultimelt' Hot Cloth Cleanser £10.00 available here and at Boots.

This is a great cleanser, it's really refreshing and invigorating to use, and is almost a clay like consistency. It smells nice too. I used this as either a second cleanse in the evenings, or as my morning cleanse. I really like the packaging, there's something satisfying about it! It's like a giant toothpaste tube.
To use: Same as the above, massage onto dry skin, and remove with a warm, damp cloth.
Skin types: all, especially oily/combination. Not the best for those with sensitivity to essential oils.

I hope this post has been helpful, if you have any questions just pop them in the box below.

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beauty

Cleansing

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

I thought I'd do a post today about cleansing, there is so much rubbish advice out there and advertising that just confuses people, so I'm hoping this post will help.

EDIT: I've split this post into two sections; Do's and Don'ts, to make it easier to read.

Firstly, cleansing is the most important part of your routine, if your skin is properly cleansed, all your products that you apply afterwards are far more effective.

DO:

1. Cleanse morning & night
You need to cleanse your face in the morning, to remove sweat and dead skin cells. At night, you need to cleanse to remove make up, and to rid your skin of dirt & bacteria. If you do not cleanse your skin properly, it will become clogged, dull, and be more susceptible to breakouts and dryness or dehydration. As mentioned in my previous post, just as you would brush your teeth morning & night, cleanse your skin. Make time.

2. Use a dedicated face cleanser
This might sound obvious, but alot of people use body products/shower gels on their face. The skin on your face is different to the rest of your body, so treat it differently.

3. Remove make up before cleansing your skin
Use a micellar water on cotton pads to remove your make up first, then cleanse your skin using a cream/balm/oil cleanser and a warm facecloth/flannel. Micellar waters are not enough to use alone as a cleanser. Or, if you'd prefer not to use a micellar water first, you can double cleanse using your cream/balm/oil cleanser, (first cleanse to remove make up, second cleanse to clean your skin) just turn your face cloth to the other side in between, so that you are not adding make up back onto your skin.

4. Remove your cleanser properly
I've said it before, but cotton pads/tissues don't remove your cleanser properly. (By cleansers - I always mean a cream, balm or oil consistency). Use a face cloth or flannel to remove it (note: use a clean cloth every day, they are really cheap, I have about 10). Run the flannel under the clean water from the tap (warm water, not hot), rather than filling the bowl. Men shave over the sink, people spit in the sink, I don't really want spit on my face, thank you.

DON'T:

5. Use wipes
Where do I begin?
Wipes do not cleanse your skin effectively, they mostly just smear make up, dirt, bacteria, etc, around your face. They contain alot of alcohol, and surfactants (detergent like chemicals) which is what keeps them moist in the packet, and are really stripping, and irritating to the skin, and can also make you suffer with more breakouts.
It's literally like putting neat vodka on a cotton pad, and wiping it over your skin. The irritation can leave your skin feeling tight, red and sore, particularly because these ingredients are then left on the skin. It's like rubbing soap into your face and not washing it off. Yes, even the wipes by those skincare brands that claim to only use 'natural' ingredients and that their products are 'kind to skin'.
People will also often be quite rough on their skin with wipes, particularly trying to remove eye make up, dragging and pulling at the delicate skin around the eyes.
When I see women in shops picking up wipes I just want to grab them out of their hand and educate them. I was in the queue in Superdrug last week and there were some ladies stood behind me, one with about 5 packets of wipes in her hand. She was saying 'I don't know what's wrong with my skin, I just keep getting all these spots all over my face so I think I need to use more of these'. I died a little inside.
No no no, please cleanse your face properly, leave the wipes for backsides.

6. Use foaming/bubbly face washes
Cleansers that are foaming very often contain sulphates/sulfates. These are foaming agents added to many cosmetics, such as shampoo, shower gels, handwash, etc. They strip the skin of it's natural oils, which can leave it feeling 'tight' and dry. This can lead to your skin going one of two ways: either dehydrated and dry, or very oily. If you strip the skin of it's natural oils, it will try to hydrate itself by producing too much oil, leading to breakouts/oilyness. (Go and look at your handwash/shower gel, they will be in there, normally listed as sodium laureth sulfate/ammonium lauryl sulfate.) I try to avoid sulfates in my products where possible. There is a common misconception that if you have oily skin, you should use a gel or foamy cleanser to get rid of the oil, and that creamy cleansers will make your skin more oily. That's not the case - as long as your cleanser is removed properly, it won't leave your skin feeling greasy or oily.

7. Use soap
By soap, I mean soap bars that Grans have in their bathrooms. Soaps do the same as the above, they strip the skin leaving it tight, and they also alkaline the skin, leaving it a breeding ground for bacteria. Your skin should never feel 'tight' after cleansing, if it does, your skins acid mantle is being disrupted. The acid mantle works like a veil that keeps moisture in, and pollution and bacteria out. Plus, soap sits on the side collecting bacteria, dust and hair, I don't think anyone particularly wants that on their face.

8. Use water alone
Many, many women often say to me 'I use water to wash my face, I just splash it with water'.
This is not enough. You wouldn't just splash your hair with water to wash it, you wouldn't just rinse your mouth with water to brush your teeth, you get the picture.

And finally...

9. Don't exfoliate every day
There are so many 'daily face scrubs' and 'daily exfoliators' out there. Your skin does not need to be manually exfoliated every day. Doing this will destroy the skins protective barrier, leaving your skin irritated, dry and sensitive. It also leaves acne-prone skin more susceptible to spots and oiliness, as scrubs spread the germs from one spot all over the face, and stimulate the oil glands.
Unfortunately, most of these daily scrubs are marketed at those with acne-prone, oily skin, and it's the worst thing you can do. It won't help.
The same goes for cleansing brushes. I hate those, why would you want to almost sand your face using what is essentially, a large electric toothbrush? Your skin is delicate, it is not a piece of furniture.
Using a mild, exfoliating toner containing AHA's every day is fine, but not granular scrubs/brushes.

...So to conclude, the best cleansers to use are cream, balm or oil consistencies, whatever your skin type!

*Rant over*